Blog Archives - Barts Tree Service

Tree Topping and Other Bad Tree Care Practices

Nearly every day I drive by at least one property where there’s a tree that’s been topped. It makes me cringe every time. Yet this is a tree care practice that doesn’t seem to be going away – along with several other problems that I often see.

So I was happy to be interviewed by Total Landscape Care for an article titled “Arborists: Some common tree-care practices are ill-advised” where I was asked to describe some of the worst, yet common, tree care practices I see around the Danbury, CT area. While these are things you will often see done, it doesn’t mean that they’re the right things to do. In fact, many of these practices can kill your trees.

Here are some of the mistakes I regularly see.

Tree Topping

A topped tree is not only unsightly, it’s also unsafe and unhealthy.

Topping is the practice of drastically cutting back all of a tree’s larger branches at a random point to make them shorter. The result is a tree with large, stubby branches sticking out in all directions. The problem is that not only does it not look good (a coat rack comes to mind), it’s also harmful to the tree. Plus, in the long run, it will cost you more to care for – or even remove – the tree.

After topping, a tree quickly grows back to the same size (or even larger) but will have lost its natural shape and the new growth will be weaker and poorly attached to the trunk (making the tree more dangerous). Add to that the fact that the large, non-selective heading cuts made when topping the tree don’t heal well (leading to rot, disease, and insect infestations) and you have a recipe for disaster.

If you’re looking for ways to reduce the overall size of your tree, give us a call. There are special pruning techniques that can make the tree smaller without damaging it.

Mulch Volcanoes

Mulch volcanoes are NOT good

Just because poorly-informed landscapers persist in piling mulch around tree trunks doesn’t mean that you should too!

While mulch can be helpful in protecting trees from string trimmers and lawnmowers, can suppress weeds, and can help keep tree roots moist, over-mulching can suffocate tree roots and cause rot and fungal problems on the tree trunk. In fact, it’s become such a problem that it’s one of the leading causes of tree and shrub death in our area.

Please check out this article to learn more about using mulch correctly.

Planting Too Deep

It’s better to plant a tree in a hole that’s a little on the shallow side than it is to plant it too deeply. As with over-mulching, planting too deeply results in rot, fungal diseases, and suffocation. Trees planted this way will start to decline and will die within a few years.

To be sure a tree is planted at the right depth, make sure you can see the root flare above ground. That’s the part at the bottom of the tree trunk where it starts to widen out, just above the roots.

You can read our tree planting tips here.

Planting In a Small Hole

Trees need room to grow, and so does their root system. The planting hole should be at least two to three times as wide as the root ball to give roots space to grow. Digging a nice, deep hole that’s barely wider than the container or rootball will only serve to ensure the tree dies.

Leaving on the Burlap or Wire Basket

Many times when I’ve removed a smaller dead tree, I’ve found a wire basket or burlap sack wrapped around the roots. That’s the basket or burlap that the tree was in before it was planted, and it should’ve been removed before planting. When it’s left in place, or only partially removed, it prevents the tree’s roots from growing into the surrounding soil. As a result, the tree becomes unstable, cannot get the nutrients and water it needs, and eventually dies.

Please don’t let any of these problems happen to you! Hiring an ISA Certified Arborist will ensure that your trees are planted, pruned and maintained in the best way possible to keep them safe, healthy and beautiful for the long term.

Tornado Damage Slideshow

After Tuesday’s violent storm and tornadoes, trees and power lines are down across a large part of Connecticut. We’re seeing devastating damage in Brookfield and surrounding areas. Tree care companies from surrounding areas are coming in to help with the cleanup and we’re running flat out responding to emergencies.

For more details, see this clip from WSFB Channel 3 News – http://www.wfsb.com/story/38228064/brookfield-clean-up-continues-days-after-storm (you may notice the Barts truck and yellow spider lift in the background of several shots).

It’s understandable that people want to get trees off their house or car and cleared from driveways and roads as quickly as possible. We’ve seen people with chainsaws tackling fallen trees without wearing proper protective gear and without any understanding of how a tree under stress can react when cut. This is extremely dangerous work and should not be done by anyone other than a licensed tree care professional (preferably a Certified Arborist). Please do not try to cut a tree off your house, car or any other structure. It may take a few days for a licensed arborist to get to your property but a few days wait is better than a potentially deadly accident.

Below is a slideshow of some of the work we’ve been doing.

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Trees Damaged By Winter Storms?

Some winters, storms cause tremendous damage to trees in the Danbury area and across Connecticut. Strong winds, ice buildup and heavy snow loads can snap branches and knock trees over.

What should you do if your tree has been damaged by a winter storm?

Assess the Damage

First, inspect the tree to evaluate the extent of storm damage.

If the damage is only minor, such as broken twigs and maybe one or two small branches, then there’s no need for immediate action. Wait until the storm has passed and major clean-up has been completed. At that point it will probably take only a little pruning to restore the tree to its normal shape.

Moderate damage to the tree usually involves larger broken branches. If they’ve fallen from the tree you can remove the debris (but look up first to make sure there’s nothing else hanging above you). Branches that are still hanging from the tree can be incredibly dangerous and should be tackled only by an arborist with the training and specialized equipment to do it safely.

More severe damage, such as a split crotch or trunk, or a downed tree, is always reason to call in the professionals. Keep in mind that if you know the tree is damaged, you’re liable for any damage (to people or property) caused by that tree or branch down the road, so dealing with it quickly is the best option.

If the tree poses an immediate danger, such as if it’s leaning on your house, call us right away.

WARNING – If the tree has hit a power line, do not go near it! Call the power company and a certified arborist right away.

Evaluate Your Options

A hanging branch like this poses a major safety hazard.

Once you’ve assessed the level of damage to your tree, you’ll need to decide what to do about it.

Minor damage requires little work to restore a tree to full health and beauty. But more extensive damage raises issues of cost, safety, appearance, value and long-term health of the tree. Not all damaged trees can be saved, and others probably should not be. A professional arborist can help you determine the best course of action for a damaged tree.

Some things a tree care professional will discuss with you when deciding whether or not to remove a damaged tree include:

How susceptible the tree species is to pests and disease
Whether the tree is nearing the end of its normal lifespan
How healthy the tree was before it was damaged
The role it plays in your landscape (e.g., shade, screening) and whether it’s still able to do that after the damage has been corrected
How vulnerable the tree will be to future storm damage and how much damage it would cause if it fails
Whether it has sentimental or historic value

Bring in the Professionals

Dealing with a storm-damaged tree is not a job for the weekend warrior. Stress loads cause the tree to react in unexpected and often dangerous ways, and simple tree removal techniques may not be appropriate.

Look for an ISA Certified Arborist with the training and specialized equipment to safely and efficiently remove trees that have been damaged or toppled by winter storms.

How To Protect Trees From Deer Antler Rubbing

Deer tear off tree bark by rubbing their antlers against the trunk

What are those scrape marks on my tree?!

Deer damage to trees is the result of bucks rubbing and scraping their antlers against trees which causes significant damage to the tree’s vascular system. Deer do this to remove the velvet from their antlers and it usually occurs from early fall into winter.

Deer also rub trees during the mating season to attract females or to mark their territory, warning other males to stay away. This activity can result in broken branches and torn tree bark.

So, what can you do about it?

Keep Deer Away from Your Trees

Since deer usually return to the same location, it’s important to know how to protect your trees from deer, especially if the trees have previously been damaged.

The best thing you can do to protect your trees from deer antler rubbing is to prevent the deer from getting close to the tree trunk or branches. This can be done surrounding your trees with deer fencing or using other barriers that offer deer rub tree protection. Repellent sprays are generally not effective for deer rub problems.

>> However, sprays ARE effective at preventing deer browsing. If deer are eating your plants, give us a call at 203-240-1302 to learn how we can save your trees, shrubs and garden beds from hungry deer.

A wire or plastic mesh sleeve can be effective in preventing deer rub damage

Use Deer Fencing for Multiple Trees

Fencing is the most effective way to protect trees from deer as it keeps them away from the entire tree (including branches and leaves, which hungry deer may be tempted to eat if they can reach it). If you have many trees, surround the entire area with woven-wire fencing. However, in order to be effective, it must be at least six to eight feet tall. Deer are great jumpers and will clear vertical fences without difficulty.

Use Tree Guards to Protect Individual Trees

Another way to provide protection is to wrap the tree trunk itself with chicken wire or one of the commercially available types of plastic tree guards.

Some tree guards are made of mesh plastic netting. Others are created from a vinyl spiral that wraps around the trunk but still allows it to grow naturally. They are usually available in rolls and can be cut to the required length. Because they can be cut to size, these types of tree guards work well on larger trees, as well as small ones.

A plastic sleeve wraps around the tree trunk to deer can’t reach the bark

Plastic tubes or pipes that have been cut down one side (lengthwise) can also be fitted around the trunks of trees in an effort to protect trees from deer. This works best for smaller diameter trees. Be sure to choose a plastic that’s white or light in color so it does not produce heat against the tree trunk from the sun.

These wraps and pipes can also protect the tree trunk from sunscald caused by intense sun reflecting off the snow, which has been known to blister or crack the bark.

If you’re having problems with deer eating your trees and shrubs, check out our article on preventing deer damage.

Why Leaves Change Color in Fall

Every autumn we revel in the beauty of the fall colors. The mixture of red, purple, orange and yellow is the result of chemical processes that take place in the tree as the seasons change from summer to winter.

During the spring and summer the leaves have served as factories where most of the foods necessary for the tree’s growth are manufactured. This food-making process takes place in the leaf in numerous cells containing chlorophyll, which gives the leaf its green color. This extraordinary chemical absorbs from sunlight the energy that is used to transform carbon dioxide and water to carbohydrates, such as sugars and starch.

Along with the green pigment are yellow to orange pigments, such as carotenes and xanthophyll which, for example, give the orange color to a carrot. Most of the year these colors are masked by great amounts of green coloring.

Chlorophyll Breaks Down in Autumn

But in the fall, because of changes in the length of daylight and changes in temperature, the leaves stop their food-making process. The chlorophyll breaks down, the green color disappears, and the yellow to orange colors become visible and give the leaves part of their fall splendor.

At the same time other chemical changes may occur, which form additional colors through the development of red anthocyanin pigments. Some mixtures give rise to the reddish and purplish fall colors of trees such as dogwoods and sumacs, while others give the sugar maple its brilliant orange.

The autumn foliage of some trees show only yellow colors. Others, like many oaks, display mostly browns. All these colors are due to the mixing of varying amounts of the chlorophyll residue and other pigments in the leaf during the fall season.

Leaves Fall Off the Tree

As the fall colors appear, other changes are taking place. At the point where the stem of the leaf is attached to the tree, a special layer of cells develops and gradually severs the tissues that support the leaf. At the same time, the tree seals the cut, so that when the leaf is finally blown off by the wind or falls from its own weight, it leaves behind a leaf scar.

Most of the broad-leaved trees in the North shed their leaves in the fall. However, the dead brown leaves of the oaks and a few other species may stay on the tree until growth starts again in the spring. In the South, where the winters are mild, some of the broad-leaved trees are evergreen; that is, the leaves stay on the trees during winter and keep their green color.

Once leaves are on the ground, you’ll need to decide what to do with the fallen leaves.

Weather Affects Color Intensity

Temperature, light, and water supply have an influence on the degree and the duration of fall color. Low temperatures above freezing will favor anthocyanin formation producing bright reds in maples. However, early frost will weaken the brilliant red color. Rainy and/or overcast days tend to increase the intensity of fall colors.

Barts Tree Tip: The best time to enjoy the autumn color would be on a clear, dry, and cool (not freezing) day.

Don’t Kill Your Trees When Draining Your Pool

When summer ends and you need to drain your swimming pool, what do you do?

Most homeowners don’t want to leave water in the pool, especially if it’s above ground. So the easiest and quickest option is to drain the water into the landscape.

But there are unintended consequences of taking the easy way out on this annual pool maintenance task.

Swimming Pool Water Harms Plants

Swimming pool water contains chemicals, especially chlorine, that can harm your trees and landscape plants when water drains and floods the area. Too much chlorine can damage tree leaves and other delicate tissues. Too much chlorinated water all at once can even kill trees.

It doesn’t take much chlorine for damage to occur. Some experts say the concentration threshold for tree damage can be as low as 0.5 parts per million.

Other factors related to tree damage from chlorine include the timing of the exposure, the amount of pool water trees receive, and if trees are still growing or are dormant.

Chlorine Damage in Trees

Research shows chlorinated pool water reacts with elements in the soil to form chloride compounds. When trees take up these compounds through their roots, leaves will look like they’re burned, something similar to leaf scorch. Leaves will show dry dead tips, edges and leaf veins. Some leaves may yellow, have stunted growth, and drop before they should. These are all signs of chlorine damage.

Some trees seem to be more susceptible than others to the chlorine in pool water. For example, the following trees have a high sensitivity to chlorine:

Ash
Box Elder
Crabapple
Dogwood
Horse Chestnut
Maples
Mulberry
Pin Oak
Sweet Gum
Yellowwood

In addition to the danger of chlorine toxicity, releasing thousands of gallons of pool water all at once can starve trees of oxygen or damage roots, making them more vulnerable to soil borne diseases. It takes time for pool water to seep into the soil, for trees get a drink, and to let the soil dry properly.

Five Ways To Drain Swimming Pools Safely

Take your time to drain the pool safely to protect your trees from chlorine damage. Here are five ideas to help you get started:

Stop chlorinating your pool at least a week before you plan to drain it. This step allows the chlorine to dissipate naturally.
Test the pool water before draining to make sure the pH level is between 7 and 8.
Drain the pool slowly to allow water to absorb into the soil over time.
Consider non-chlorinated pool water as grey water, not clean water. Test the water on a few inexpensive and replaceable plants before watering trees.
Scoop buckets of pool water to leave in the sun until no chlorine remains (about 24-48 hours should do the trick). Use these buckets to water plants in other parts of the landscape.

What To Do If Trees Are Damaged By Chlorinated Pool Water

If your trees show symptoms of damage from chlorinated pool water, irrigate the area with clean, non-chlorinated water to help dilute the chlorine and leach it out of the soil.

If that doesn’t help (and it may not) then give us a call. We’ve seen a lot of trees killed this way and may be able to save yours.

Barts Featured on Discover Bethel Podcast

If you’ve ever wondered what it takes to be a successful local business, then you won’t want to miss this podcast.

Matt Bartelme was featured on an episode of Discover Bethel! The Bethel Business Podcast produced by the Bethel Chamber of Commerce.

On the podcast you’ll learn:

how Matt started Barts Tree Service,
the difference between a landscaper and an arborist,
what new enemies your trees are facing, and
why you should check out the health of the surrounding trees before buying a new house.

It’s easy to listen – just click the link below.

Green Expo & Shakespeare on the Green – August 12

Did you know that Barts sponsors many of the events put on by the Ridgefield Playhouse? And the upcoming Green Expo and Shakespeare on the Green performance of Love’s Labour’s Lost is no exception.

Join us on Saturday, August 12th at noon for the Green Expo. We’ll be giving out kids shirts, spruce tree saplings and other swag!

Then stay for a fantastic performance of Love’s Labour’s Lost, a hilarious comedy about – you guessed it – love. The play starts at 2pm and it’s FREE!

Both events will be held on the Green right beside the Playhouse at 80 East Ridge, Ridgefield, CT 06877.

For more information and to reserve your tickets for the show, visit the Ridgefield Playhouse website or call the Box Office at (203) 438-5795.

Why Mulching With Grass Clippings Can Kill Your Trees

Mulch is one of the least appreciated, but most important additions to the landscape. A thick layer of shredded bark, pine straw, grass clippings, gravel or river rock over the soil helps save water, reduces the soil temperature, and keeps the yard weed free. Mulch also gives that finishing touch when used in a flower bed or around a tree planting.

The Problem With Using Grass Clippings As Mulch

Grass clippings are one of the cheapest and most readily available mulches around, and for years they were also the safest to use.

That is until 2011 when a problem cropped up related to a new herbicide used on turfgrass growing around trees. Lawn care companies began seeing damage to trees and shrubs after using a broadleaf weed killer on turf grass called Imprelis. Symptoms included browning, twisted needles and stems, dieback and even tree death within just a few months of the herbicide’s application. Hardest hit were pine and spruce trees.

The trees suffered because they took up the weed killer from the treated turf areas the same way the weeds did, through the leaves, stems and roots. It didn’t take long for the product to be pulled from the market, but Imprelis-related damage continued to show up for several years because of the herbicide’s residual power.

Some stressed trees recovered over time. Regular watering, especially during dry periods, and delaying fertilizing for a year helped trees regain their health.

Herbicide Carryover Harms Trees

Even though Imprelis is no longer available, herbicide carryover can still be a problem with grass clippings. Herbicide carryover happens when products used to kill broadleaf weeds remain active in the clippings. When these treated grass clippings are used as mulch, rain and irrigation water can release the weed killer allowing it to leach into the soil and affect trees, shrubs, flowers and vegetable plants.

How To Protect Trees From Herbicide Damage

While grass clippings still make a good mulch in the landscape, it’s important to know their herbicide history before using them. Avoid using grass clippings near trees if you’re unsure if they’ve been treated.

Here are some other ways to protect the trees in your yard from herbicide damage from grass clippings:

Avoid mulching around trees and shrubs with grass clippings from lawns treated with any synthetic chemical weed killer.
Make sure your lawn care company is using herbicides approved for residential lawn use and using them according to the label’s instructions.
If you use herbicides to control lawn weeds, read labels carefully for any restricted applications for the herbicide or the grass clippings.
Use a mulching lawn mower and leave grass clippings on the lawn.
Opt for organic methods for controlling weeds to avoid applying herbicides to your lawn.
Use other mulches around trees and shrubs, such as bark chips, rocks or gravel.

In the past, the threat from herbicide damage to trees and plants in the landscape used to come from accidental drift when lawns were treated. Now we know that trees can also suffer damage from weed killer that remains in lawn clippings (as well as in compost used as mulch).

Tips for Protecting Trees from Hammock Harm

Is there anything better than lazing away a summer day in a hammock under the shade of two beautiful trees?

The only thing to complete that relaxing picture is making sure your trees don’t suffer for your enjoyment.

If your idealized vision of hammock surfing includes tying a rope between two trees, it’s time to rethink your tree-tying strategy. Tree damage is especially likely if you use a thin rope when setting up the hammock.

Rope ties can cut into the bark of even the sturdiest of trees, opening it up to attacks of insects and diseases. Ropes can also strangle or girdle the tree making it difficult for it to access water and necessary nutrients to remain healthy. When tying ropes to smaller tree trunks, you can weaken the tree so much it won’t be able to recover.

If you’re intent on doing some hammock-swinging this summer, make sure you have the right trees and gear.

Choose Your Trees Carefully

Some people joke about hanging the hammock on the smallest tree possible, just in case it falls on you. Others say to set the hammock to the height you could easily fall without hurting yourself.

But personal safety isn’t a laughing matter, so look for two mature, healthy trees with trunks that can support your weight. Trees should be standing about 12-15 feet apart. Be sure to look up to check for any dead or hanging branches. Then look down to see what will be underneath the hammock.

Use Tree Saver Straps

Instead of cloth or plastic rope, protect your trees with special tree saver straps that minimize tree damage. These wide straps (at least 1 inch wide) are made from nylon or polyester webbing that will go around each tree’s trunk. Because of the wide webbing, they’re designed to reduce tree girdling and prevent damage to the bark and underlying layers.

As an alternative to tree saver straps, you could pad the rope with rope covers or lengths of garden hose that keep the rope away from the bark.

Never pound nails, screw bolts or fasten any kind of attachment directly into the tree.

Hang the Hammock

Find the thickest part of the tree’s trunk, about 4 ½ feet from the ground and wrap the strap around the tree. Straps will have a loop or ring for looping around the tree until it’s snug. Use heavy-duty S-hooks to connect the hammock to the strap and repeat on the other tree.

For safety’s sake, make sure the lowest point of the hammock is about 18 inches off the ground.

If you plan to leave your hammock up all summer, be sure to check the straps every time you use it. Make sure they haven’t become overtightened on the tree or loosened in between use.

At the end of summer, remove the straps and hammock. Not only will that make your hammock last longer, it will avoid the problem of tight straps girdling the tree as it grows.

If you want to avoid damage to your trees altogether, enjoy a portable hammock on a stand instead of one that hangs. You’ll still get to swing in the shade, without putting any stress on your trees.

Call us today at 203-240-1302