Weather Archives - Barts Tree Service

Fall is Ideal Tree Planting Time

Fall is a good time to plant most types of trees

Planting trees in the fall gives them a head start on establishing them selves before the ground freezes. Fall is the season when trees turn their energy to growing new roots, whereas springtime is the season for growing new foliage and twigs. Not to mention many nurseries are looking to clear out stock before winter and reduce prices.

Putting trees in the ground in fall allows the roots to become established before they are called upon the following spring to resume pumping water and nutrients up to the rapidly growing foliage. The more time the tree has to establish roots, the more quickly the tree will grow with vigor.

Select the Right Tree for the Right Location

I can’t stress this enough. Don’t try to fight Mother Nature and be aware of infrastructure impacts around your planting site. Help guarantee that your tree gets off to a good start and enjoys a healthy life by choosing the right tree for your yard. Consider the tree’s size when mature and requirements for nutrients and water,

It’s a good idea to do a soil test in the area in which you want to plant. A soil test provides invaluable information, such as the pH of the soil and its structure. Look at pin oak (Quercus palustris) for an example of soil impacts. This tree thrives in acidic conditions but will struggle in alkaline soil.

Dig the Correct Size Planting Hole

One of the most common mistakes we see with tree planting is the tree gets planted too deeply in a narrow hole, which causes the roots to grow in a circular pattern rather than venturing out into the surrounding soil and establishing a strong foothold. This creates two fatal scenarios: 1) Root girdling (circling) which kills the tree by strangling the flow on nutrients, and 2) Those trees that don’t get a good grip on native soil are prone to uprooting and failure.

The planting hole should be twice the width of the tree’s root ball, and the tree should come out 1/2-inch higher than the surrounding ground after planting.

Remove Protective Coverings

If your tree roots came wrapped in burlap or the trunk is covered with tape, remove all of this before planting. The roots will not penetrate the burlap or get through the wire mesh basket. And cord or twine tied around the tree trunk to keep the burlap in place will end up strangling your tree as it grows.

Provide Adequate Water

Keep irrigating your newly planted tree up until the soil freezes—even after all of the other trees in your yard have lost their leaves. Resume regular watering in the late winter when the ground thaws.

Mulch Your Newly-Planted Tree

Applying a layer of shredded bark to the soil preserves moisture and provides a protective layer for the roots. Place a 2- to 3-inch layer of mulch 3 inches away from the base of the tree, going out to beyond the tree’s canopy. Do not over mulch!

Tornado Damage Slideshow

After Tuesday’s violent storm and tornadoes, trees and power lines are down across a large part of Connecticut. We’re seeing devastating damage in Brookfield and surrounding areas. Tree care companies from surrounding areas are coming in to help with the cleanup and we’re running flat out responding to emergencies.

For more details, see this clip from WSFB Channel 3 News – http://www.wfsb.com/story/38228064/brookfield-clean-up-continues-days-after-storm (you may notice the Barts truck and yellow spider lift in the background of several shots).

It’s understandable that people want to get trees off their house or car and cleared from driveways and roads as quickly as possible. We’ve seen people with chainsaws tackling fallen trees without wearing proper protective gear and without any understanding of how a tree under stress can react when cut. This is extremely dangerous work and should not be done by anyone other than a licensed tree care professional (preferably a Certified Arborist). Please do not try to cut a tree off your house, car or any other structure. It may take a few days for a licensed arborist to get to your property but a few days wait is better than a potentially deadly accident.

Below is a slideshow of some of the work we’ve been doing.

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Why Leaves Change Color in Fall

Every autumn we revel in the beauty of the fall colors. The mixture of red, purple, orange and yellow is the result of chemical processes that take place in the tree as the seasons change from summer to winter.

During the spring and summer the leaves have served as factories where most of the foods necessary for the tree’s growth are manufactured. This food-making process takes place in the leaf in numerous cells containing chlorophyll, which gives the leaf its green color. This extraordinary chemical absorbs from sunlight the energy that is used to transform carbon dioxide and water to carbohydrates, such as sugars and starch.

Along with the green pigment are yellow to orange pigments, such as carotenes and xanthophyll which, for example, give the orange color to a carrot. Most of the year these colors are masked by great amounts of green coloring.

Chlorophyll Breaks Down in Autumn

But in the fall, because of changes in the length of daylight and changes in temperature, the leaves stop their food-making process. The chlorophyll breaks down, the green color disappears, and the yellow to orange colors become visible and give the leaves part of their fall splendor.

At the same time other chemical changes may occur, which form additional colors through the development of red anthocyanin pigments. Some mixtures give rise to the reddish and purplish fall colors of trees such as dogwoods and sumacs, while others give the sugar maple its brilliant orange.

The autumn foliage of some trees show only yellow colors. Others, like many oaks, display mostly browns. All these colors are due to the mixing of varying amounts of the chlorophyll residue and other pigments in the leaf during the fall season.

Leaves Fall Off the Tree

As the fall colors appear, other changes are taking place. At the point where the stem of the leaf is attached to the tree, a special layer of cells develops and gradually severs the tissues that support the leaf. At the same time, the tree seals the cut, so that when the leaf is finally blown off by the wind or falls from its own weight, it leaves behind a leaf scar.

Most of the broad-leaved trees in the North shed their leaves in the fall. However, the dead brown leaves of the oaks and a few other species may stay on the tree until growth starts again in the spring. In the South, where the winters are mild, some of the broad-leaved trees are evergreen; that is, the leaves stay on the trees during winter and keep their green color.

Once leaves are on the ground, you’ll need to decide what to do with the fallen leaves.

Weather Affects Color Intensity

Temperature, light, and water supply have an influence on the degree and the duration of fall color. Low temperatures above freezing will favor anthocyanin formation producing bright reds in maples. However, early frost will weaken the brilliant red color. Rainy and/or overcast days tend to increase the intensity of fall colors.

Barts Tree Tip: The best time to enjoy the autumn color would be on a clear, dry, and cool (not freezing) day.

Q&A: Will Snow Banks Damage My Trees and Shrubs?

Question: We’ve had a lot of snow this winter and it’s piled up along the drive and walkway. Are all these snow banks going to damage my trees and shrubs?

Although Connecticut seems like the new arctic right now, spring is just around the corner (at least I hope so). With all the snow piled up from this season there are some preventative measures you can take to help your trees and shrubs get a healthy start to the growing season before the snow melts.

The Problem With Snow Banks

First, a good majority of the snow banks that are pushed up against your trees have large amounts of salt, sand or de-icing chemicals in them. As the snow melts, all these chemicals will leach into the soil and can poison your trees and shrubs.

Younger trees and shrubs are at a higher risk than mature trees since the roots are contained in a smaller area. In most cases, this results in salt damage, which stresses the tree but probably won’t kill it. However, in high concentrations the chemicals can kill your trees and shrubs.

Second, large mounds of snow piled up against trees and shrubs will start to melt and turn into blocks of heavy ice. As the spring melt progresses, these piles will get lower and lower. If there are branches encapsulated in the snow bank then all of this weight will break them. This is more common with evergreens and shrubs since they have branches from ground level up.

Steps You Can Take to Protect Your Landscape

This is the time to break up those snow banks left from plowing, particularly those that are around young trees and shrubs. Move the snow elsewhere so as it melts the runoff will flow away from the tree.

Focus on snow that was removed from walkways and paved surfaces where deicers were used. Clean snow melting off will not pose any chemical risk to your landscape.

Also look at runoff areas from paved surfaces. If all the melt water is going to flow towards your tress and shrubs look at redirecting the flow. You can buy sand bags or long socks full of sand from a hardware store or you can literally fill an old sock with sand. Lay them on the ground to direct melt off away from trees.

Take note of melt off flow this spring. If it’s problematic then change where snow is piled next season. It’s best if you can keep these piles away from trees and shrubs and down hill from them. This way, it will leach these chemicals away and make for a much healthier landscape.

As the ground thaws start a weekly watering regimen for a month or so. This may seem strange given that the ground is already wet but it will help to flush salt and chemicals from the ground and ensure healthy trees and shrubs for spring.

For more information, see our article on salt damage to trees.

Q&A: How Do Trees Protect Themselves From Freezing Temperatures?

Question: During the cold winter months, when temperatures dip well below freezing, what prevents trees (and shrubs) from turning into a giant icicle?

Trees basically have three ways of protecting themselves from freezing temperatures.

Dry Out

Most trees remove water from their tissues to enter a dehydrated or dormant state for the winter. That way, there is less water to freeze and expand.

Sweeten Up

Some trees produce more sugars in their sap to increase its “antifreeze” capability (the more sugar in the sap, the less likely it is to freeze). Maples do this and that’s why you get sugar-rich sap flowing at the end of winter which becomes maple syrup.

Apply Pressure

Some trees use super cooling. This allows a tree to keep water in the trunk even at below freezing temperatures without the water freezing. It does this by not allowing ice crystals to start forming in the sap. How? By adding pressure which, in turn, doesn’t let the molecules expand and form ice crystals.

Q&A: Why Do Trees Make Cracking Noises in Winter?

Question: My trees make all kinds of popping and cracking sounds during really cold winter weather. What’s all that racket??

When temperatures dip well below zero, trees will make all kinds of popping and cracking noises, especially if the temperature drops very quickly. These sounds are typically caused by frost cracks.

What is a Frost Crack?

When water freezes, it expands in volume. The sap in trees is made of water diluted with carbohydrates (sugars) and minerals, which acts like antifreeze. The higher the sugar content, the lower the freezing point of sap.

But there is always a point where even sugar-rich sap will freeze. Depending on how much sap is in the tree, its sugar content, and the temperature, it can result in a vertical cracking in the trunk, called a frost crack.

Frost cracks also form when the temperatures heat up. On sunny winter days, tree bark will warm from solar energy. This causes cells to expand in the bark and the sapwood under the bark. When the sun goes down, the temperature drops very quickly causing the bark to contract. However, the sapwood under the bark doesn’t cool as fast, causing the bark to crack.

Since sun exposure can be a key driver, the south and southwestern side of trees are where you will see many of these cracks.

Effects of Frost Cracks on Tree Health

Trees are similar to the plumbing in your house; they have xylem and phloem tubes in the interior of the tree, which transport fluids up and down the tree. When the sap freezes, these tubes burst just like the copper pipes in a house.

Frost cracks can be small and internal (so you don’t see them) or large and external (so they break through the bark). These larger frost cracks are the ones you usually hear – they tend to make that loud crack or pop that wakes you up in the middle of the night. Some cracks can be severe enough that they crack almost anytime the temperature plunges, year after year.

During the spring, the tree will try to grow over the crack with a special type of wood called “reaction wood” (kind of like a scab). Unfortunately, in most cases it cracks again the next winter.

This cycle of annual cracking and reaction wood growth leaves a large vertical seam, which is an indicator of a weak tree that, in many cases, has compromised strength and internal decay.

So while popping sounds don’t mean that your tree is going to fall down any time soon, take a good look at your trees in spring to see if there are any vertical seams. Keep an eye on them from year to year and if you have any concerns, call in an arborist for a hazardous tree assessment.

Wind Damage in Ridgefield

High winds have brought more storm damage to the area. We are out removing trees from houses and opening driveways in Ridgefield, Bethel and Danbury. Many roads are closed from downed trees and wires so remember to stay clear of wires and assume they are all live.

Post Storm Recovery – Beware of Storm Chasers

Angies list posted a good article about post storm safety and recovery activities so we wanted to share it.

Click here to see the article
http://www.angieslist.com/weather-protection/storm-recovery.htm

Storm Damage Cleanup From Irene

Tree damage from storm irene Hurricane Irene is headed our way with 80 mph winds and Barts Tree Service is geared up and ready with enough supplies to last us two weeks. We will be responding to storm damage calls with two crews 24 hours a day and prioritizing storm cleanup by severity i.e. Removing trees from houses and roof tops, clearing access ways, general cleanup. Our emergancy tree services include one truck equipped with two generators and emergency lighting, and all the materials required to tarp your roof after the tree removal.

Please be extra observant of downed electrical wires and/or trees and limbs that may have made contact.

Be safe!

Major Storm Damage in Connecticut

Based on recent weather events I have come to the conclusion that mother nature is just angry…..

Barts Tree Service has been out a good portion of last night responding to all the storm damage, pulling trees off of houses and tarping up roof tops in Brookfield, Danbury and Newtown. Then this morning off at first light to continue the storm cleanup and tree removal of downed trees in Bethel, Ridgfield and back to Brookfield and New Fairfield.

I am sure we will be out late tonight as well cutting away and covering roof tops before more thunderstorms and rain arrives.

Remember to stay away from wires and give us a call to for any of your emergency or hazardous tree needs.

Call us today at 203-240-1302