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How to Choose the Right Tree For Your Landscape

Colorado blue spruce too close to building

This Colorado Blue Spruce was planted too close to the building.

With spring just around the corner, people are getting ready to head out to the yard to plant flowers, trees and shrubs. While everyone has good intentions for planting trees, all too often we see the wrong tree in the wrong location.

Right Tree, Right Place – Or Not …

Every year we get tons of calls to prune trees away from houses, sheds and wires. Many of these jobs require us to push the limits of pruning standards and/or remove a perfectly healthy tree because it was planted too close to a building, under utility wires or next to a septic system.

While these trees look great in their sapling stages, they start to encroach on nearby structures within a few years as they grow towards their mature size (which can be as much as 75 feet!). In some cases, simply planting the tree 15 feet further away from objects would have ensured that the tree was fine through its complete growth cycle.

So before you buy a tree, here are the things you need to do and the factors to consider in deciding which tree is best for you and where to plant it.

Do Your Homework

Read up on the tree species you’re looking to plant or ask your nursery for details. Before you even buy the tree, make sure you know the following:

Mature Size – When it’s fully grown, what is the tree’s height, diameter or spread, and shape?
Growth Rate – Many people want a fast growing tree but be careful since they are prone to insects, disease and decay. Fast growing trees also have shorter lifespans.
Does the tree fruit? – You might not want the dirty mess from fruit falling on walkways and driveways.
Hardiness Zone – In CT we have zones 6b, 6a and 5b so make sure the tree is hardy to those zones or lower (e.g., zones 4 and 3).
Soil – Most trees need a certain type of soil (e.g., sand, loam, clay) and pH level to thrive.
Sun Exposure – Should the tree be planted in full sun, full shade, or a bit of both?
Moisture Requirements – Be sure to meet the moisture requirements with either an irrigation drip line or water bag system, especially as we head into summer. If you have no easy way to water a tree that requires a fair bit of moisture, look for a different tree.

Get a Soil Sample

It’s recommended that you do a soil sample where you want to put your trees. This will tell you if your soil is compatible with your tree selection and whether any soil amendments are required. Poor soil conditions contribute to 75% of tree health issues.

Here in Connecticut you can get your soil tested inexpensively through the UConn Soil Testing Laboratory.

Look For Potential Damage

Will your proposed planting location lead to a tree that causes damage, especially in 20 years from now? Consider how the mature tree will look and where it will grow. Below are some of the things to think about:

Cracked foundations
Tree limbs touching the house, which can cause rubbing damage, gutters full of debris, and rodents gaining access to attics.
Heavy shade over the house, which leads to moss, mildew and wood siding decay.
Sewer lines or septic clogging with roots
Storm damage to your house, cars or utility wires
Blocking a scenic view
Cracked pavement or sidewalks
Dropping of seeds or fruit, leading to slippery or dirty walkways, driveways, decks, etc.

Trees planted in the wrong location can cause extensive property damage.

Plant the Proper Distance From Your House

The recommended spacing from a mature sized tree to a building is 8-foot minimum for small trees and 20 feet for large trees.

So, for example, if you’re planting an oak sapling (which will eventually become a very large tree with a 50-foot spread – or 25 feet out from the trunk) you should plant the tree a minimum of 45 feet from a building (25 feet of tree branches plus 20 feet spacing). Keep in mind that this is a MINIMUM value.

Consider Overhead Utility Wires

These trees are too close to the utility wires and will need to be drastically trimmed or removed

Before planting, look up! Is the mature height and spread of the tree going to encroach on your wires? If it does, the utility company will top your trees or cut a large notch out of it later. That’s not a pretty sight and is detrimental to the tree’s health. Not to mention there is now a tree that can rip down your wires in a storm.

Be Wary of “Dwarf” Trees

We’ve seen lots of so called dwarf trees grow much larger than specified. I would make sure you’re dealing with a quality nursery so you can have higher confidence that the dwarf trees really are dwarf. Reputable nurseries sometimes cost a little more but the quality and the fact that they have horticulturists on staff that can guide you is invaluable. Plus, most nurseries guarantee their tree stock.

Look for the Sun

Consider the path of the sun in your planting layout. Depending on the sun’s location, trees will cast a shadow on your house. This can be great for controlling summer AC costs but if there’s too much shade (such as with a very dense tree or too many trees) you might have moss issues on the roof and possible siding decay.

Think About Maintenance

Determine if your location might require a pruning regimen to maintain the tree at a certain size or form. It’s always better for tree health and visual appeal to be proactive.

Prune every 1-2 years to maintain the tree to your requirements instead of going in after the tree is overgrown and having to structurally prune it back. If you’re not prepared to do this kind of maintenance pruning, consider buying a different type of tree.

Buy Healthy Trees

Lastly, when purchasing your trees don’t buy problem trees. Avoid trees with wounds and damage to the trunk (this is often caused by machine handling in the nursery).

Also, depending on the species, you generally want one single trunk – avoid co-dominant trunks (you will see a ‘V ‘with two almost equal sized stems going upward rather than one trunk). These are very prone to splitting during storms. While a tree is young you can prune it for shape (including removing a co-dominant stem) but it’s best to avoid defects or poor shape at the point of purchase. Again, this is where a reputable nursery will steer you in the right direction.

Ready to Plant?

Use the above info to determine how your selections will fit into your location. And think 20 to 30 years out.

All to often, we see good intentions of planting a tree executed very poorly and it leads to decline or death of the tree. Please refer to How to Plant a Tree so to not kill your new landscape plantings.

If you currently have trees that you think might be too close to infrastructure there are possibilities to transplant and move the tree depending on size, health and location. Call Barts Tree Service and we can assess the situation for you and lay out any options.

If you would like a licensed and certified arborist to assist you with recommendations and any layout possibilities for your site, just give us a call.

Protect Yourself: What You Need to Know About Tree Care Company Insurance

Many people are unaware that the tree care industry is one of the most dangerous professions out there. Tree care employees work at extreme heights (up to 120 feet here in the northeast) while using dangerous tools, such as chain saws. The danger is compounded by working near power lines, busy roadways and other infrastructure obstacles. These working conditions place urban tree work in the same category as logging, which is rated as the second most dangerous job in the USA and has a high risk of serious injury and/or death.

With all these risks in mind, you can see why having a company that’s properly insured should be at the top of your list. This is also why you should make sure that a tree care company has up-to-date industry certifications and licenses. This ensures that employees are properly trained and that they use the latest industry standards to mitigate the risks involved in tree care.

In most cases, consumers tend to lump tree care companies in with landscapers – after all, they both do “tree work,” right? But there’s a big difference – landscapers do not usually work in the high-risk situations listed above and are certainly not insured properly to cover these risks.

Two Types of Tree Care Companies

It’s important to understand how proper tree service will protect the health and safety of your trees, but it’s just as important to know how the tree care company is going to protect you from potential liability.

For this reason I generalize the tree companies into two categories:

“Tree Guys”
Arborists

“Tree Guys” will state or advertise that they are “Fully Insured” with liability and workers comp while not truly understanding what coverage is actually required. In most cases when we see “Fully Insured” advertised, it means nothing. There are only a very small number of tree companies in our area that have proper liability and workers compensation insurance.

Arborists work very closely with industry associations, such as the International Society of Arboriculture (ISA), Tree Care Industry Association (TCIA) and CT Tree Protective Association (CTPA), to stay at the forefront of the tree care industry while meeting or exceeding safety and tree care standards. Arborists are passionate about their industry and delivering a level of care and professionalism that greatly exceeds the “Tree Guy” scenario. Additionally, Arborists commit to a level of training, certifications and licensing that is ongoing and shows a commitment to being an industry steward that best represents consumers and their landscape needs.

About Insurance Policies for Tree Care Work

Insurance policies usually have a working height clause that for landscapers can be a maximum of 8 to 10 feet. So, in some cases, if they perform work in a tree above that height, the insurance policy is null and void.

This means that if a “Tree Guy” with a landscaping policy has an incident while working 40 feet up in tree, there might not be insurance coverage and you will be next in line for coverage.

About Workers Compensation

Workers compensation is legally required in Connecticut for companies with one or more employees (the owner isn’t required to have workers compensation, although it’s always a good idea to have it). It covers injuries that tree care company employees or owners suffer while at work. This is really the only protection you have from the liability of someone being injured while working on your property.

Without workers compensation, tree companies are legally required to take responsibility for work injuries. However, as the property owner you are next in line. If you hire a tree care company that has no workers compensation coverage, you will be required to pay the bill if an employee is injured and the company owner cannot pay. You can sue the company to recover damages, but you have to pay for the injured person’s medical bills, lost wages and costs associated with the injury in the meantime.

So if a contractor states that he has less than 5 employees and is not required to carry workers compensation, be aware that you are liable for coverage in the case of an incident on your property.

There is also the option for a company owner to opt out of workers compensation coverage. This could result in the same scenario above if the owner (or an employee) is injured on your property.

How to Protect Yourself

When requesting tree care quotes there are a few items to look for to ensure that you are covered in the event that something happens while the company is performing work on your property.

Certificate of Insurance

Request a Certificate of Insurance (COI) from the company. This should list their policy number and limits.

Example:

General Liability $1 million each occurrence and $2 million aggregate
Automobile Liability $1 million each accident
Umbrella Liability $1 million minimum
Workers Compensation $500,000 per accident

The contractor should also be able to add you as an additional insured or the certificate holder. The insurance company generally will do this for free. In some cases when doing work on a property line, both property owners should be listed.

Call the listed insurance company to confirm the policy is real and in good standing. Some ‘Tree Guys” have been known to produce fraudulent insurance certificates or use expired insurance certificates..

If a company takes offense to requesting this information. you probably shouldn’t be doing business with them.

Accreditation and Licensing

You can also look to see which companies are TCIA Accredited, which means that they have passed a rigorous industry audit to confirm they meet or exceed best practices for a tree care business. Part of this audit includes insurance requirements.

Search for Accredited tree companies in your area on the TCIA website.

Ask if the company has certified employees. These credentials can be validated at www.isa-arbor.com.

In Connecticut, most tree care work can only be done legally by licensed Arborists. Check the CTPA website to make sure the company is licensed.

References and Reviews

Reputable tree contractors should also have no problem providing references. Call them.

Lastly, engage the Internet. Check the BBB and social media for complaints and reviews. Some great sites are Yelp, Angies List, Google+ and YP.com.

Q&A: Will Snow Banks Damage My Trees and Shrubs?

Question: We’ve had a lot of snow this winter and it’s piled up along the drive and walkway. Are all these snow banks going to damage my trees and shrubs?

Although Connecticut seems like the new arctic right now, spring is just around the corner (at least I hope so). With all the snow piled up from this season there are some preventative measures you can take to help your trees and shrubs get a healthy start to the growing season before the snow melts.

The Problem With Snow Banks

First, a good majority of the snow banks that are pushed up against your trees have large amounts of salt, sand or de-icing chemicals in them. As the snow melts, all these chemicals will leach into the soil and can poison your trees and shrubs.

Younger trees and shrubs are at a higher risk than mature trees since the roots are contained in a smaller area. In most cases, this results in salt damage, which stresses the tree but probably won’t kill it. However, in high concentrations the chemicals can kill your trees and shrubs.

Second, large mounds of snow piled up against trees and shrubs will start to melt and turn into blocks of heavy ice. As the spring melt progresses, these piles will get lower and lower. If there are branches encapsulated in the snow bank then all of this weight will break them. This is more common with evergreens and shrubs since they have branches from ground level up.

Steps You Can Take to Protect Your Landscape

This is the time to break up those snow banks left from plowing, particularly those that are around young trees and shrubs. Move the snow elsewhere so as it melts the runoff will flow away from the tree.

Focus on snow that was removed from walkways and paved surfaces where deicers were used. Clean snow melting off will not pose any chemical risk to your landscape.

Also look at runoff areas from paved surfaces. If all the melt water is going to flow towards your tress and shrubs look at redirecting the flow. You can buy sand bags or long socks full of sand from a hardware store or you can literally fill an old sock with sand. Lay them on the ground to direct melt off away from trees.

Take note of melt off flow this spring. If it’s problematic then change where snow is piled next season. It’s best if you can keep these piles away from trees and shrubs and down hill from them. This way, it will leach these chemicals away and make for a much healthier landscape.

As the ground thaws start a weekly watering regimen for a month or so. This may seem strange given that the ground is already wet but it will help to flush salt and chemicals from the ground and ensure healthy trees and shrubs for spring.

For more information, see our article on salt damage to trees.

Q&A: How Do Trees Protect Themselves From Freezing Temperatures?

Question: During the cold winter months, when temperatures dip well below freezing, what prevents trees (and shrubs) from turning into a giant icicle?

Trees basically have three ways of protecting themselves from freezing temperatures.

Dry Out

Most trees remove water from their tissues to enter a dehydrated or dormant state for the winter. That way, there is less water to freeze and expand.

Sweeten Up

Some trees produce more sugars in their sap to increase its “antifreeze” capability (the more sugar in the sap, the less likely it is to freeze). Maples do this and that’s why you get sugar-rich sap flowing at the end of winter which becomes maple syrup.

Apply Pressure

Some trees use super cooling. This allows a tree to keep water in the trunk even at below freezing temperatures without the water freezing. It does this by not allowing ice crystals to start forming in the sap. How? By adding pressure which, in turn, doesn’t let the molecules expand and form ice crystals.

Preventing Winter Rodent Damage on Young Trees

Winter rodent damage to bark of a young tree

Winter rodent damage to the bark of a young tree

Mice, voles, rabbits and rodents can cause damage to young trees, saplings and shrubs during the winter months by feeding on bark, twigs, buds and foliage.

As snow accumulates around tree trunks and lower branches, it provides a great environment for little critters to tunnel around tree trunks. By tunneling under the snow, they can create a protected habitrail network for feeding, especially when deep snow on the ground is persistent.

This feeding can create small nibbling wounds in the bark and deeper layers of the tree which allow fungal and parasitic attacks come spring. In some cases, the damage can be severe enough where the trunk is girdled (eaten away entirely around the circumference) and cuts off vascular flow, killing the tree or shrub.

If the snow has a nice hard crust you will also see tree damage two or three feet off the ground – just above the snow level. Since rabbits and the like can stay on top of the snow pack while foraging, they have access to bark higher up the tree.

How to Prevent Winter Rodent Damage

Before the snow starts flying, wrap ¼ inch wire mesh around the bottom 24 inches of the tree. Be sure to sink the mesh 2 inches into the ground so the critters can’t get under it. Ensure the mesh is not too snug around the trunk and consider removing it each spring. There are also plastic tree guards that work well.

During the winter, shovel snow from around your small trees so as to eliminate the rodent habitrail feeding opportunity. This also allows predators, especially owls and hawks, to have a clear sight line to these rodents if they are going for a snack so it will naturally reduce the likelihood of rodent damage.

Q&A: Why Do Trees Make Cracking Noises in Winter?

Question: My trees make all kinds of popping and cracking sounds during really cold winter weather. What’s all that racket??

When temperatures dip well below zero, trees will make all kinds of popping and cracking noises, especially if the temperature drops very quickly. These sounds are typically caused by frost cracks.

What is a Frost Crack?

When water freezes, it expands in volume. The sap in trees is made of water diluted with carbohydrates (sugars) and minerals, which acts like antifreeze. The higher the sugar content, the lower the freezing point of sap.

But there is always a point where even sugar-rich sap will freeze. Depending on how much sap is in the tree, its sugar content, and the temperature, it can result in a vertical cracking in the trunk, called a frost crack.

Frost cracks also form when the temperatures heat up. On sunny winter days, tree bark will warm from solar energy. This causes cells to expand in the bark and the sapwood under the bark. When the sun goes down, the temperature drops very quickly causing the bark to contract. However, the sapwood under the bark doesn’t cool as fast, causing the bark to crack.

Since sun exposure can be a key driver, the south and southwestern side of trees are where you will see many of these cracks.

Effects of Frost Cracks on Tree Health

Trees are similar to the plumbing in your house; they have xylem and phloem tubes in the interior of the tree, which transport fluids up and down the tree. When the sap freezes, these tubes burst just like the copper pipes in a house.

Frost cracks can be small and internal (so you don’t see them) or large and external (so they break through the bark). These larger frost cracks are the ones you usually hear – they tend to make that loud crack or pop that wakes you up in the middle of the night. Some cracks can be severe enough that they crack almost anytime the temperature plunges, year after year.

During the spring, the tree will try to grow over the crack with a special type of wood called “reaction wood” (kind of like a scab). Unfortunately, in most cases it cracks again the next winter.

This cycle of annual cracking and reaction wood growth leaves a large vertical seam, which is an indicator of a weak tree that, in many cases, has compromised strength and internal decay.

So while popping sounds don’t mean that your tree is going to fall down any time soon, take a good look at your trees in spring to see if there are any vertical seams. Keep an eye on them from year to year and if you have any concerns, call in an arborist for a hazardous tree assessment.

Shoveling Snow Off Roof Tops

Barts tree service safely shoveling snow from roof

Jeff tied off with his harness shoveling snow off the roof last winter

With “Snowmageddon 2015” heading our way, we remind all home owners to stay safe – including when it comes to removing heavy snow loads from roofs and tree branches.

It’s difficult enough to shovel snow on a driveway or path. Add height and unstable, slippery surfaces to that, and you have a recipe for disaster.

Snow removal from a roof or tree should always be left to the professionals.

Safety is the number one consideration when shoveling snow off roof tops. We strap on our climbing gear before getting up on a roof and ensure that we’re properly tied in; that way, if anyone slips there’s no chance of falling off the roof.

While we’re up there, we’ll also remove ice dams that are backing up into your walls and windows from all the snow.

Don’t try this yourself! We only get up on your roof when we’re fully protected with all the necessary safety gear.

As for trees that are weighed down with snow or ice, don’t stand underneath and poke at the branches with a broom or shovel. All of that snow can easily cause the branch to snap and land right on top of you. You’d be surprised how many people do this! So leave it to the professionals if you’re worried that the snow load will damage the tree.

How To Protect Trees and Shrubs From Winter Weather

Here in Connecticut we face a whole range of threats to our trees and shrubs during winter, both from the weather itself and from animal pests. Here are just a few of the things that can injure your plants during the cold months of winter:

Heavy snow loads can break branches, especially if snow is shoveled or falls off your roof onto your plants
Cold dry winds will dry out trees, especially conifers
Sun reflecting off snow can scald and blister tree trunks and branches
And of course deer will munch away on anything they can get to

The good news is that all of these things can be prevented. Here are our recommendations for how to protect trees and shrubs from the harsh winter weather.

Protection From Snow Loads

We recently got this client ready for winter by setting up frames to protect shrubs close to the house.

Build an A-frame over plantings and shrubs near the house so when snow comes off the roof they are shielded from the impact. This is a great use of some scrap plywood or planks. Cut them so as to form an A over the shrub, then either screw the pieces together at the top or install a couple old hinges so you can tuck it away for next year.

Protection from Wind, Sun and Deer

Build frames around shrubs next to the house where snow loads may come off the roof.

The most effective winter protection for trees and shrubs is burlap. Eco-friendly, biodegradable and strong, burlap is the MacGyver of protecting your landscape.

This functional fabric is ideal for protecting newly planted trees, late-planted trees with underdeveloped root systems, and trees subject to powerful winter winds, sunscald, and damaging hard frost.

How to Apply Burlap

There are two trains of thought on how to apply burlap.

Option 1 – Wrap the Plant

The final step will be to wrap burlap around these frames.

First, wrap the plant directly with burlap and tie it to itself with string or zip ties. This helps to mitigate the winter concerns previously mentioned but I don’t like that it’s in direct contact with the tree, shrub or conifer. My concern here is that the plant can’t breath and could trap moisture against foliage (especially on conifers). However, it’s a quick and easy way to provide protection and is better than no protection at all.

Option 2 – Build a Tent

The second option is a little more work but I believe it’s a better system. Instead of wrapping the burlap around the plant, use metal or wood stakes like you’re creating a fence around your bushes and/or shrubs. Try to close off deer access if you can and at a minimum put up one straight row to create a wind break.

Make sure to beat the stakes into the ground before frost sets in!

The key here is to keep the burlap 6”-10” from the plant and foliage so it breaths a little. Make sure the burlap is high enough to keep deer away. Also, if you use wood stakes you can just go crazy with the staple gun when securing the burlap. When you remove the burlap in spring, just roll it up and label a stake so you know where to put it next fall.

Fall Tree Care Tips for Connecticut Homeowners

Fall is the perfect time to help your trees recover from the heat and lack of water they probably experienced over the summer. Stressed trees are more susceptible to pests, disease, and winter damage so now’s the time to make sure your trees enter the harsh winter months in the best health possible.

Below are the activities we recommend you do before the snow starts flying.

And don’t forget to download our Fall Tree Care Tips!

Water and Mulch Your Trees and Shrubs

Give all of your trees and shrubs a good drink, especially those that were recently planted. Place a 2 to 3-inch layer of high-quality, organic mulch around young trees and plants. Mulch helps keep organic matter in the soil around the tree, conserves soil moisture, and provides weed control. Don’t over-mulch! For tips on how to do it right, see our article on Mulching Trees.

Clean Up

Remove fallen leaves from beneath trees and shrubs that are susceptible to diseases such as anthracnose, fire blight, and cedar apple rust. Leaving the leaves on the ground over winter will spread the disease and weaken your trees. Be especially vigilant around trees such as dogwoods and crabapples.
For leaves that aren’t prone to disease, consider mulching them in place or turning them into leaf compost rather than disposing of them. Check out our article on what to do with fallen leaves.

Evaluate Trees for Weaknesses

Evaluate trees for weaknesses that can be susceptible to winter weather. Contain heavy ends on limbs too long to support snow and ice loads. Install temporary or permanent rope, cable or twine in plants (multi-stem) susceptible to snow and ice loads (do not forget to remove temporary support in the spring).
After the leaves have fallen you’ll be better able to see the branch structure and condition of your trees. If anything looks unsafe (see our article on Identifying Hazardous Trees), give us a call. Fall is the best time to prune, remove, or cable your tree to protect you and your property over the winter.

Protect Trees and Shrubs

Protect plants susceptible to winter injury by spraying them with anti-desiccants or covering with a breathable burlap type material. You can learn more about using burlap to protect your plants in our article on How to Protect Trees and Shrubs From Winter Weather.

Check for Deer Damage

Check deer susceptible plants for evidence of grazing. Look for things like thinning of a plant’s foliage at the 5 ft level and below (deer head height) or droppings near preferred plants. If you notice deer damage, fall is the best time to spray deer repellent that will protect your trees over the winter. For more information, check out our article on How to Prevent Winter Deer Damage.

Plant New Trees

Fall is a great time to plant new trees and shrubs. The ground is still warm (so plant before the frost starts freezing the soil!) and there’s plenty of moisture, both of which will get your plants off to a quick start. For more details and some planting tips, see Fall is Ideal Tree Planting Time. You might also want to choose one of our recommended 10 Best Trees for Fall Foliage Color in CT.

Emerald Ash Borer Update for Connecticut

Emerald Ash Borer

We just attended a great Emerald Ash Borer (EAB) workshop put on by Connecticut Tree Protective Association (CTPA) and the town of Southbury, CT where we met with our state experts and entomologists to review the latest information and best practices for dealing with EAB. Then we had a little field trip and visited local infested sites where we peeled the bark off to see the EAB larva.

About Emerald Ash Borer

EAB infests only ash trees. Ash makes up approximately 4% of Connecticut’s trees and up to 20% in urban areas. An EAB infestation can kill a tree in 3-5 years. In some areas where ash yellows disease is also present this can result in a huge increase the rate of mortality for ash trees.

Emerald Ash Borer has destroyed over 100 million ash trees so far and over the next several years will threaten every ash tree in the Connecticut area.

Emerald Ash Borer was first detected in Prospect, CT July 16^th of 2012 and has spread quickly. Although EAB generally travels only ½ a mile per year, it is easily transported on logs and firewood from infested trees. With people moving wood around (e.g., taking firewood to your summer camp, removing dead trees from your yard) the spread of EAB is usually greatly accelerated.

EAB Firewood Quarantines in Connecticut

In efforts to limit the movement of infested ash wood, the DEEP implemented a quarantine for New Haven County so logs and/or firewood can not be transported outside of the county without meeting certain criteria (kiln dried, debarked logs, etc.) and obtaining permits. Because of recent EAB findings, the quarantine has been expanded to include New Haven, Fairfield, Litchfield and Hartford Counties.

What Connecticut is Doing to Combat EAB

Parasitic Wasps – DEEP has released parasitic wasps as a biological control at four locations in CT. These wasps attack only the EAB and can kill them quite effectively although it is still too early to know the impacts on the EAB population in Connecticut.

Increased Enforcement – DEEP has submitted changes to update the quarantine laws so that local police can implement fines on the spot for people caught moving wood, whereas now they can only write a promise to appear for court. Hopefully, this will increase police enforcement. Additionally DEEP has started to implement spot checks with DOT on certain main access ways.

EAB Traps – You might see purple square traps hanging out of trees along roadsides; we call them “Barney Traps” for the color. These traps help DEEP detect and track the EAB population as it migrates across Connecticut.

How You Can Manage EAB

The keys to managing EAB are to fully understand your options and to take a proactive approach. Now that EAB is just starting to be detected in our area, we’re doing our best to provide you with education on EAB best practices. This will help you make informed decisions that fit your budget and will benefit your trees.

The best thing you can do right away is to assess how EAB has or will impact your property. Ask yourself the following questions:

Do I have any ash trees? How many do I have?
What’s the condition of my ash trees?
What are the associated risks?
Should my ash trees be treated or should I plan for removal?

There are some treatments to help prevent EAB damage (we use a special systemic tree injection process) but if you have a lot of ash trees, you may want to proactively remove some of them instead. We’re happy to help you figure out the best options.

>> See our Emerald Ash Borer Treatment program.

More Information on EAB

www.Emeraldashborer.info

CT DEEP Resource Page on EAB

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